Alright, Alright!

Well, I have officially been shamed by my friend Erica for not blogging for so long, so here goes!

I think I can say I am officially overwhelmed. As I think I may have said in my previous blog, I am a kinesthetic processor. All we've been doing is interacting with others, touristy things and eating and sleeping--which doesn't allow all that much time for intentional movement (sometimes this looks like mouth movement but calls back to US are expensive so...) That being said, I will do my best to live with finger movement and relay my experience thus far.

Well, there certainly has been a lot of doctor's visits in the past 14 days that we've been here. There were gastroenterologists, and ultrasounds, and gynecologists, etc. One thing that I have to say about india is that healthcare is affordable!!! Sandhya got an ultrasound for $10 US! I almost died-- they just paid the bill at the cashier like there was nothing to it! Upon inquiry and realizing after doing the conversion in my head, I said, "whhhaaaaat!! we've been duped! (in the US, that is).

Oh, right, I should probably tell you why we've been visiting the docs! Everything is fine by the way. Before we left sandhya was feeling nausea all the time and vomited about three times during the span of two or three weeks. Obviously, we were concerned and consulted a doc in the US. He said he thought it was probably her gallbladder so she got onto a diet (which seemed to help--no fats,etc) and wait it out until we got to India so she could get it treated for just about... hum, nothing... I think she's spent about $100 total on 2 ultrasounds, gastro meds, gyno visits, blood work (FSH and estrodial) gastro doc visit and a mammogram. Shiiiittt!! She was so funny, she wondered if it could be counted toward her out of network deductible.

What we found out is that she has some fibroids in here uterus (which she experiences no symptoms from so they don't need to be removed) and that her gallbladder is perfectly fine. The nausea I suspect was maybe a virus. the doc gave her some digestive aids (which I paid like $15 at whole foods before I left, which she paid about $2 for here) and she is feeling fine. The rest were follow ups and basic routine check up stuff.

Anyway, enough about that... 

Sightseeing update. 

We've been to a few touristy things so far, Charminar, Chowmahalla palace and Golkunda sound and light show. 

You've seen the pics of Charminar and Chowmahalla (look to the right) but now for the story!

I have never seen so many people in one place before. There was so much to take in and experience that I got overwhelmed pretty fast. I almost had a full fledged panic attack on the stairs up to the top of the gate/entrance to the old city (see pics). The stairway was so narrow, the steps were so tall and there were so many people crowding into the passage at the same time I got very, very claustrophobic. I had an image of needing to get out and not being able to because there were so many people that I thought my heart was going to explode out of my chest. I really couldn't breathe. I kept a firm eye hold on my girlfriend's bottom and tried to breathe. I made it to the top but I needed some time to recover... Unfortunately, I wasn't provided that opportunity until much, much later. 

Upon arrival, S and I went to the edge to look out over the hordes of people below. There was so much to see, smell, hear, experience, my senses were on overdrive. Then a few teenage boys asked if I would pose for a picture. I didn't really respond, I just stood there, dumbfounded, with my mouth half open, whilst they snapped it (i don't want to think about why they wanted a picture... the motto here on all beauty products in South India is "fair and lovely"--they place that value on in their women so one could understand how I would suspect foul play). Anywho, a few minutes after that some Indian women came up to S and I and introduced themselves. Turns out they were from a teacher's college in Bangalore. After a few minutes of chatting and asking where I was from (L: "america", cause when I say "US" they say oh, "america") they also wanted to snap a photo. I felt like I was on the inside of a cage in a zoo. What am I? An albino tiger? LOL! Oh man, weird...

Well, needless to say it was hard for me to concentrate on all the sights and I think I was partially on auto-pilot because later when I saw the pics Sandhya was relentlessly snapping I said, "oh yeah, right, that's where we were today!!" It just seemed so surreal.

We then walked around Lad bizarre, which is full of tiny shops selling bangles or books or setting people's fractures (see the pic of the bone specialist shop), meat, tools, hardwares, whatever you could think of (except sunglasses, which I was in desperate need of!!). So, there are people, dogs, bikes, cars, auto rickshaws, motorcycles, cars and pedestrians all trying to occupy the same 100sq. ft. as you travel in India. Because they don't have a lane system everyone crowds to the same place to get around. It's a little treacherous to walk! Thank god most of the time we have a driver (wow, that's interesting to hear how that sounds--it's also a very weird experience to have someone waiting on you while you are doing errands or visiting your friends, etc. People are up your ass here all the time: servants, people, family, you name it...no privacy whatsoever!) Speaking of the driver on the way out of town (when I just couldn't take it anymore and he had to come and rescue us--come on, I wasn't a total lightweight, it was like 2.5hrs of this craziness in the sun!) people were actually swarming the car and we were stopped for about 10mins. The people who were behind us and also paralyzed in the traffic started actually PUSHING the car and getting very angry!!! It was kinda scary (that was tempered for my mother...but who are we kidding here I almost crapped my pants!). 

Alright, so the driver whisked us away to Chowmahalla palace where there were a lot less people and lot more sanity for me. It was really beautiful. Indian architecture is really great. We spent some time wandering around (without the pleasure of being in any eye locks with the locals) and learning a bit about the history of Hyderabad. The last Nizam was actually the wealthiest person in the world (he is said to have been very cheap and smoke the stubs of other people's cigarettes--which is maybe how he became rich...).  He was married to Turkish royalty and let me tell you the niece of the last Caliph of Turkey was a babe!! Anywho, we enjoyed some treats in the shade and I was able to calm down a bit and process some of my experience at Charminar. After such an eventful day I took a nap when we got home!

The next day we went for an ayurvedic massage. I don't know if anyone has every had this kind of traditional Kerala massage, but boy if you have you don't forget it! At some point during the massage I heard the voice of my friend Erica Z. who just came back from India say in my head, "I got this massage and it was crazy, and this woman got all up into my kitchen (aka, for those not in the know, the private parts)!" I got a little worried but it didn't ever happen so I was relieved. Anyway, I digress! So, basically what happens is they lube you up real good with hot oil and lay you on a wooden table and pump the shit out of your tissues. It was definitely not what I was used to but it did the job. I think I can relax a bit more next time now that I know what to expect. I think I am also going to try a spa in Gutchybali (at least that is how it is said, if not spelled!) soon as well. I'll keep you posted. 

Other than all of the above mentioned adventures Sandhya and I have been trying to manifest some while we are here. There is so much possibility and opportunity here that it is quite inspiring. We would love to start a business in the US that would permit us more travel to and from India, so we are working on that as well. More on that later...

Her parents are very, very nice to me and I feel that I have been adopted fully! It's cute, they call me Lisa baby and have been feeding me millions upon millions of mangoes (which is another way to show hospitality and love!). 

We have been buying tons of things from table clothes to clothes and today we went to the tailor to get some things stitched. There really is no end to the costuming possibilities and creativity. It's amazing!

In a few days my cousin Michael will arrive from Bangalore and we will go see the temple in Verengal. I'm very, very excited to see him! He's been traveling since November throughout Asia. I bet he'll be happy to see a familiar face, as will I.

I'm also finally meeting a lot of Sandhya's friends (people I've heard a bizillion stories about) and getting to see what her life was like here in india (archie, butchie, jaynat, mahanoor, etc.). They all are really nice and I'm finding it easy to be easy with them.

It's so funny to think about her in that job with Patsy now seeing how she grew up with a million Sandhyas and Cassandras and Gretchens around her! 

S also has many powerful and rich friends as well (one friend I met today Ranuk, is the decedent of the last Nizam) which is also a little strange to see how they live and what they talk about (not to objectify it but I just have never experienced that kind of wealth before). The class system is very exaggerated and pronounced here. It is also interesting to reflect on Sandhya's commitment to social justice issues and understand some of the reasons why... given her privilege as well... There are also pronounced remnants of the English colonization and the internalized oppression that can occur when the white folks leave and the local people take over but keep some of the same "civilized" customs. There is so much to say about that but I won't just now...

Well, that's it for now. My little finger walkers are tired and need a rest. Hope you enjoy the post Erica!

Love to you all!

Lisa

Stout

We got stuck in Dulles for a few hours. We found some beers! Guess which kind? Sandhya wondered how that was going to help me cope, while she chomped on her pathetic "chicken" sandwich and sipped on a huge glass of water.

We're Here!!

Lisa's Great Adventure:Oh My God! After 27 Hours (and almost 6 years of talking about it) We are here! It hasn't really sunk in yet... We got to the airport around 5:15am. I thought Sandhya was going to die she was so excited! After a few minutes through immigration, and luggage line we were off on our great adventure! Rahul picked us up (with a driver, of course) and we drove through the streets of Shamshabad to Banjara Hills in Hyderabad.

We saw a guy on a scooter, carrying a goat. I thought, "Oh, how cute! Look at those square eyes". Then Sandhya told me he was likely off to the slaughter--much to my dismay...

Sandhya's sister-in-law and mother were waiting for us on the steps to the house when we got here. Rajesweri (Sandhya's sister-in-law) is very sweet and friendly. She calls Sandhya "kuti" or "old dog." Sandhya's mom was very loving and friendly and gave me a big hug. Yay!! I was very nervous she wouldn't like me... So, everything is good.

We go into the house and get the tour. I see where all the stories have taken place. We are sleeping in Rahul's old lair in the front of the house (downstairs). We see Sandhya's old bedroom (where she spent some of her early adulthood) and it looks a lot like her bedroom on Walnut street. I mention this to her later and she says, "huh, I never thought about that." It was quite clear to me though that that room was the last place she had been before coming to Boulder.

We had breakfast of mangoes (they really are just inexplicably good! It's a very complex flavor)and upma (kind of like cream of wheat with veggies) and then took a 6 hour nap. We missed the hottest part of the day, so I'm still not sure what's in store in terms of heat. I have to say though, they really do manage the heat well here. There are all kinds of tricks and the lassi is delicious (cooling drink of yogurt, curry leaves, corriander powder, mint, etc.).

When we woke up we had tea (lipton green label of course) and then I took a walk with Anna (sandhya's dad). It was quite beautiful at dusk. It reminded me of Central Park in a way. It was like a little bit of nature admidst the noise and traffic of the city. There is a central part of the place we were walking that has a mosque in it (which I wanted to see) but it was closing. Maybe tomorrow...

People are so much more flow adjusting here. They'd have to be, the traffic is crazy! People just weave in and out of each other. It's kind of like dancing and quite beautiful.

The walk with Anna can be summed up in the following observations... There are many different kinds of Oggling.
1. Men with wives= they say with their eyes, "I'm with this woman, so I'm going to be tame, but my eyes say it all...given the chance..."
2. Women and children= they say with their faces, "what the hell is that gori (white woman) doing with the older Indian man."
3. Men= they say with their whole bodies, "I am going to eat you alive!!"

It's quite crazy. This can be subtle and also not so subtle. There is much to track and understand and one is always "on" here. I think it will take some time for me to adjust.

I am taking good care of myself--with all my lotions and potions I brought, and am really quite happy. It's fun to see Sandhya in her element and I'm not quite as anxious as I thought I would be-- which is a nice surprise. It really helps that I've met Anna and Rahul before. I feel more at ease.

Raisa is delightful (Rahul's daughter--many compliments from her about my skirt and necklace, etc) and very easy going. We found out that she shas the same superpower as her fellow Cancerian Erica -- she remembers what she has worn on which occasion. 5-year old Rishabh is a terror but also delightful! He and I played "pakdho" or "catch me" forever tonight. He's hilarious and very stubborn! That kid would not let up! We were running up and down and round and round while Anna and Bindi (sandhya's mom) laughed hysterically (apparently they have to play like this with him every night and it was quite a relief that I took over--I'm sure it's much easier to watch; he's intense!).

Sandhya's great adventure: DC, Kuwait (where there were more Indians than Arabs...but then we are everywhere ;) and then a mere five hours alter, HYDERABAD. The old Begumpet (tr. Stomch of the Begum) Airport is no longer being used, other than for private planes, my brother tells me . That used to be a short 10-15 minute drive from home, but now there is this new big one, just a month old, and on a good day, like this morning -- early Sundaymorning) it si about an hour. I can't fill my eyes enough, watching hungrily to see what's changed, is changing and what I can still recognize, somewhere under that old and spanky new merging.

We've been taking taking "no jet lag" pills during our trip to ward of the old JL, and I feel like I will not be sleeping for a long time.

Wait! There's a cart laden with mangoes! The one justifiation I can use for arriving here in the thick of summer -- mmman-gosmmm. My brother's (Rahul) car plays Dev Anand film songs (60s), which Lisa already knows well from hearing them pretty much every day in Boulder.

Customs andf immigration is so smooth I can hardly believe it. It's nice to have a passport of the country you are visiting. Outside the airport, I am happily surrounded by crowds of waiting families, and the frontline of "taxi, taxi madam? Will nothing annoy me for now? Noooo.

I check off the places I can still recognize -- Sarojini Devi Eye Hospital, where I've had myriad eye test and contemplated lasik surgery several years ago, there is the dusty narrow road to the Passport office, and there the ChaCha Nehru Park (no, not Nehru taking to the floor, but him being referred to as 'uncle' Nehru, as a whole generation of children were taught to think of him -- chacha -- father's younger brother.

Road no. 12? Where is it? Rahul: "we're on it". What?! This is Road 12? Multi-storeyed building, large stiore windows?

No wonder I could not find it on google 3d.

And just then, we are there: the short turn to the left, and three houses down the hill, and there it is: no. 175. How many times have I done this in my nostalgic imagination? Taken that turn and stopped outside the gate?

Mom and Rajeswari (Rahul's wife) are sitting on the steps of the house, and as I step out of the car, I know I have won my bet with Lisa. Yes, they say it together: 'oh yes, you are really so fat'. Sweetness and kindness is a wonderful family trait. Somehow, it seems to have slipped by my family in a hurry. I am meeting my mother after 7 years.

I have tried to make some meaning of those seven years. Maybe some day, but for now, I don't know where to rest my eyes, and try to remember to keep breathing. I am from Boulder, aren't I?

Mangos for breakfast, as per my request. Himayat mangos, first among my top two flavors. Rasaal, which is my other is not in the market yet. My mother tells me she won't buy the early ripened ones because they are rush-ripened "with acid". So, happily, we are still doing fruits seasonally. Anway, back to Rasaal -- these are large (about 8 inches long) bulky mangos. The best way to think of them is like a juice with high pulp content that you drink/suck up/chew right from its natural packing. A picture will explain it best, and as soon as I get my hands on one. there will be one up here (sorry just the picture, not the fruit).
There might be an ayurvedic massage in the very near future. And since I did not bring too many clothes with me, we are also to be soon on our first shopping spree. Two of my favorite stores from Delhi now have branches here, so I shall soon look decent again.
And in line of getting my suffering gall bladder attended to, I have my first appointment with the gastroentrologist tomorrow morning. Then maybe I can consume more mangos, idlis, dosas, coconut chutney...you know where my heart lies, right?

Last day...

Things are coming to a head. Life is about to change. Wrapping up loose ends. I don't feel like working today!!

Soon and Very Soon...

Well, it's Tuesday, and I'm here with my wives (S and Erica)--2 more days to go! I started taking my malaria pills. We are in chaos: shopping, packing, etc. Gotta go get it done.